and Holy Week begins!

Palm Sunday…Holy week is on the horizon. From my experience in Spain with Semana Santa, I have learned that when it comes to the Spanish Speaking World and Easter, a dramatic spectacle can be expected. It is no surprise that South America doesn’t mess around with Jesus either. Drums and explosions are currently awakening the small Andean village of Tilcara in the middle of nowhere Northwest Argentina where I am claiming my temporary residence for the next week or so. I am accompanied by my amigos, Natalia and Carla from Uruguay, and Fernando from Argentina.

The province of Jujuy is Argentina’s poorest region in the country, but it is rich in culture and scenic beauty. Artisan craft markets fill the village streets, folkloric music livens up the tranquilo scene, and the aroma of coca leaves that are ritually chewed can be detected just about everywhere. The surrounding landscape is painted with cactuses, canyons, and layered rocks of shades of red that only seem to exist here.

Walking through the streets I feel eyes on me. I am a gringo mixed in a world of poncho wearing, coca leaf chewing, folkloric flute playing, indigenous people. On a side note-- I was informed by my kind Uruguayan friends that due to contrary belief, the more widely used term for gringo in South America is actually Yankee. I am a lone Yankee in a sea of South Americans ready to embrace some Holy Week traditions.

The festivities commence tomorrow with a 7 hour long procession to some other neighboring village. At home, attending church on both Holy Thursday and Good Friday was once considered a major effort. While attempting to experience a new culture, I now eagerly accept taking 7 hour long pilgrimages… all in the name of religion. I have never been a more devout Catholic.

Amidst the fusion of Native American culture and Catholicism, this Easter will not include hunting for Easter eggs, jelly beans, and Easter bonnets, but I am certain that Semana Santa will not lack some lively traditions.