The word for wind in Spanish is “el viento.” It would be virtually impossible to not include this term in the daily vocabulary because it is the consistent forecast in the heart of Patagonia. Through constant exchange of travelers tales I have learned that farther south the streets are lined with ropes because people have been known to blow away without the lifelines. It is decidedly so that this world is not for the faint of heart.
Inclimate weather did not deter Patagonian explorers such as Chris and myself from finding our way to El Calafate, although it did shatter the top windshield of our double decker bus during our 30 hour jaunt from Bariloche. Interestingly enough we had a front row seat for the excitement. Argentina knows how to liven up a busride.
5000 km of road make up the infamous Ruta 40 that stretches North to South deep in the vast expanses of land that we know as Patagonia. To sum up the journey: it is stony dirt roads, harsh winds, and complete solitude.
We have left behind the cozy alpine town Bariloche. A few goodbyes were essential before our departure. We said farewell to our friends at Tango Inn Hostel and the delicious eggs they served every morning at breakfast, waved goodbye to the rivers and streams where Chris successfully found fish, and made sure to say hasta luego to our new friends, Dan and Leanna that we met up with during our final days in the lake district.
All of this was replaced with El Calafate, a new area to explore. A visit to Los Glaciers National Park was already paid in the first days. This park holds the impressive Perito Moreno Glacier… a glacier larger than the city of Buenos Aires. Incredible. As this massive structure continues to build up in size, walls of ice shatter off of it. Thundering noise caused by the ice hitting the lake waters can be heard miles away. The lake is a museum of ice sculptures thanks in part to the glacier. Quite possibly one of the most visually pleasing views of life.
2009 looks promising. Tonight we will ring in the new year at an asado (bbq) hosted by our friends at Marco Polo Hostel, and tomorrow the wind will blow us to EL Chalten for some more trekking, camping, and picture snapping of glaciers. Prospero Ano to everyone!
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Happy Holidays
In the words of the group Band Aid, “ Do they know it’s Christmas time at all?” Back home friends and family are most likely bombarded with Christmas propaganda in their daily routine. Holiday tunes have taken over the radio waves, and a fresh blanket of snow has been dumped on New England to ensure a white Christmas. T minus a week until Navidad here in Argentina and it would be a Christmas miracle to spot a decorated tree.
In the Southern Hemisphere we are embracing summer. The days settle in at a comfortable 80 degree mark on the thermometer and our bronzed faces enjoy the daylight hours until about 10 pm. Mysteriously Christmas is nowhere to be found. It seems as though this may be the year that Christmas was forgotten. Fortunately there have been enough distractions that it would not be entirely tragic is Santa skipped over us this year. Chris, Bree and I have settled in quite nicely to our Patagonian lifestyle. We have found adventure and new friends just about everywhere we trek.
One of the simplest joys I find in traveling is spending time in the hostel kitchen making new friends. Thus far we have an eclectic list of international amigos. We have befriended an Israeli couple enjoying their around the world honeymoon trip. One evening the scene in the kitchen involved an Irishman, Englishman, and an American sharing the same cooking space (sort of sounds like the beginning of a bad joke.) Fortunately despite the centuries of history between these countries we managed to share the kitchen in peace, and a few beers! The other day over breakfast we met three young men who have been on their adventure since July 2007. These three ambitious guys have pedaled their bikes from Alaska and plan to ride to the very bottom of Argentina. Breakfast has never been more inspiring and kitchens have never been more interesting.
Interestingly enough inspirations have been found outside of the hostel kitchen walls. My traveling buddies (Chris and Bree) and myself hopped on a two hour bus ride the other day following a trail of snow capped mountains to an unbelievable hiking trail . Only 5 hours of hiking led us to a mountain peak tucked in between two giant glaciers. Every so often a roar that sounded like thunder clamored through the eerily silent vast space, but really it was massive chunks of ice tumbling down the mountain. The overpowering noises matched with 360 degrees of Andes panoramic view created a very humbling scene. We spent the night on a small shack on the top of the mountain with a few park rangers who practically had to chase us down the mountain the next morning because we lacked a few pesos. Just another adventure in the land of Patagonia.
I currently sit in the hostel kitchen. Things have come full circle and the staff is actually decorating for the big holiday this week. Our numbers in traveling companions have dwindled as we are down to two. With heavy hearts Chris and I said farewell to Bree today as she heads back to the States for Christmas. Soon Chris and I will venture farther south for bigger glaciers and stronger winds. To everyone back home, warm wishes and happy holidays.
In the Southern Hemisphere we are embracing summer. The days settle in at a comfortable 80 degree mark on the thermometer and our bronzed faces enjoy the daylight hours until about 10 pm. Mysteriously Christmas is nowhere to be found. It seems as though this may be the year that Christmas was forgotten. Fortunately there have been enough distractions that it would not be entirely tragic is Santa skipped over us this year. Chris, Bree and I have settled in quite nicely to our Patagonian lifestyle. We have found adventure and new friends just about everywhere we trek.
One of the simplest joys I find in traveling is spending time in the hostel kitchen making new friends. Thus far we have an eclectic list of international amigos. We have befriended an Israeli couple enjoying their around the world honeymoon trip. One evening the scene in the kitchen involved an Irishman, Englishman, and an American sharing the same cooking space (sort of sounds like the beginning of a bad joke.) Fortunately despite the centuries of history between these countries we managed to share the kitchen in peace, and a few beers! The other day over breakfast we met three young men who have been on their adventure since July 2007. These three ambitious guys have pedaled their bikes from Alaska and plan to ride to the very bottom of Argentina. Breakfast has never been more inspiring and kitchens have never been more interesting.
Interestingly enough inspirations have been found outside of the hostel kitchen walls. My traveling buddies (Chris and Bree) and myself hopped on a two hour bus ride the other day following a trail of snow capped mountains to an unbelievable hiking trail . Only 5 hours of hiking led us to a mountain peak tucked in between two giant glaciers. Every so often a roar that sounded like thunder clamored through the eerily silent vast space, but really it was massive chunks of ice tumbling down the mountain. The overpowering noises matched with 360 degrees of Andes panoramic view created a very humbling scene. We spent the night on a small shack on the top of the mountain with a few park rangers who practically had to chase us down the mountain the next morning because we lacked a few pesos. Just another adventure in the land of Patagonia.
I currently sit in the hostel kitchen. Things have come full circle and the staff is actually decorating for the big holiday this week. Our numbers in traveling companions have dwindled as we are down to two. With heavy hearts Chris and I said farewell to Bree today as she heads back to the States for Christmas. Soon Chris and I will venture farther south for bigger glaciers and stronger winds. To everyone back home, warm wishes and happy holidays.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Mountains
I have mountains to climb. This can be interpreted in every sense of the phrase. Current location: Bariloche, the gateway to the Argentine side of Patagonia. Situation: a beautiful tiny city nestled between snow capped mountains, immense glacial lakes, and comfortably beside the infamous Nahuel Huapi National Park.
At first glance, it appears that Chris Bree and I have arrived in Switzerland. The architecture in this Argentine town in fact rivals that of it´s European cousin.
An 18 hour busride from the windy shores of beachtown, Mar del Plata has granted us the entrance into our beloved Patagonia. On a side note, as much as we have been pleasantly surprised with our Patagonian experience, the bus ride was equally astounding. Full pull out beds, flat screen tvs, and 3 meals later, I was led to believe that I was on a first class flight and only for a few mere pesos.
As the bus approached closer to our next destination on our open itinerary, the vast flat lands suddenly began to forms peaks. A pack of wild horses ran by the window, and shortly thereafter the bluest rivers began to creep along the rolling countryside.
Bree spotted rafting and Chris spotted fly fishing and almost instantaneously smiles and cheers could be witnessed from seats 4, 5, and 6. We have found a land that can provide happiness.
The gateway to Patagonia has not been one to disappoint since our first glimpse from the bus seat windows. 24 hours later from our arrival and we have found ourselves situated with the pleasant company of Bree´s friends from her program in Chile, Patrick and Katie.
There is not a moment to waste in this outdoor community. As Bree pointed out on our drive to canyoning today, ¨I feel as though I could spend the next 20 years of my life here and find something new to do everyday.¨
Canyoning is an experience like no other, and that is how the five of us chose to spend our Sunday thanks in part to the persuasion of Patrick and Katie. For the lack of a better description, this adventure sport involves repelling down waterfalls with a harness and some rope. Fortunately, we had Hector and Hernan to guide us through the hike in and down glacial rivers.
Standing atop a 40 meter waterfall while a man is telling you in spanish to lean all the way back as though you should fall backwards provides a whole new meaning to the word trust.
Why would a great day end with canyoning? I find myself sitting at a campsite now. We (Chris) is grilling another culinary feast alongside Lake Nahuel Huapi (which by the way is huge). The views are spectacular and the company ever better.
Trails are calling my name and some life decisions made be discovered on a mountain top. I think I will stay a while in Patagonia. More updates to follow... Chris and I may purchase a car.
At first glance, it appears that Chris Bree and I have arrived in Switzerland. The architecture in this Argentine town in fact rivals that of it´s European cousin.
An 18 hour busride from the windy shores of beachtown, Mar del Plata has granted us the entrance into our beloved Patagonia. On a side note, as much as we have been pleasantly surprised with our Patagonian experience, the bus ride was equally astounding. Full pull out beds, flat screen tvs, and 3 meals later, I was led to believe that I was on a first class flight and only for a few mere pesos.
As the bus approached closer to our next destination on our open itinerary, the vast flat lands suddenly began to forms peaks. A pack of wild horses ran by the window, and shortly thereafter the bluest rivers began to creep along the rolling countryside.
Bree spotted rafting and Chris spotted fly fishing and almost instantaneously smiles and cheers could be witnessed from seats 4, 5, and 6. We have found a land that can provide happiness.
The gateway to Patagonia has not been one to disappoint since our first glimpse from the bus seat windows. 24 hours later from our arrival and we have found ourselves situated with the pleasant company of Bree´s friends from her program in Chile, Patrick and Katie.
There is not a moment to waste in this outdoor community. As Bree pointed out on our drive to canyoning today, ¨I feel as though I could spend the next 20 years of my life here and find something new to do everyday.¨
Canyoning is an experience like no other, and that is how the five of us chose to spend our Sunday thanks in part to the persuasion of Patrick and Katie. For the lack of a better description, this adventure sport involves repelling down waterfalls with a harness and some rope. Fortunately, we had Hector and Hernan to guide us through the hike in and down glacial rivers.
Standing atop a 40 meter waterfall while a man is telling you in spanish to lean all the way back as though you should fall backwards provides a whole new meaning to the word trust.
Why would a great day end with canyoning? I find myself sitting at a campsite now. We (Chris) is grilling another culinary feast alongside Lake Nahuel Huapi (which by the way is huge). The views are spectacular and the company ever better.
Trails are calling my name and some life decisions made be discovered on a mountain top. I think I will stay a while in Patagonia. More updates to follow... Chris and I may purchase a car.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
BA living
Vagabonding (derived from the word vagabond of course) could potentially be used as a verb. Mr. Rolf Potts, an iconic travel writer and personal idol of mine, coined the term himself when he began a backpacking stint during his mid twenties.
This is a lifestyle that I will happily admit I have adapted as my own, at least for the time being. While I feel comfortable enjoying this lifestyle anywhere: Argentina, a widely vast and geographically diverse country, is well suited for my current vagabonding terrain.
One week in this beautiful metropolis, and what a week it has been. Luggage was lost, and then it was found, Tango Backpackers hostel has become my temporary home, and I have reunited with some of EF’s finest former employees. All in all the adventure is off to a wonderful start.
Some of the highlights have included stumbling upon hundreds of Tango dancers in the street who congregated for Tango Night, attending a Drumming concert while swaying to the beats with hippies, and having an authentic Argentinean Asado compliments to Chris.
Tomorrow our band of traveling nomads (Andy, Colin, Bree, Chris and myself) will head to a beach town in the south and from there we will branch off to new adventures. Life could not be any better right now. I was meant to roam the world and eat the best tasting steak known to mankind.
This is a lifestyle that I will happily admit I have adapted as my own, at least for the time being. While I feel comfortable enjoying this lifestyle anywhere: Argentina, a widely vast and geographically diverse country, is well suited for my current vagabonding terrain.
One week in this beautiful metropolis, and what a week it has been. Luggage was lost, and then it was found, Tango Backpackers hostel has become my temporary home, and I have reunited with some of EF’s finest former employees. All in all the adventure is off to a wonderful start.
Some of the highlights have included stumbling upon hundreds of Tango dancers in the street who congregated for Tango Night, attending a Drumming concert while swaying to the beats with hippies, and having an authentic Argentinean Asado compliments to Chris.
Tomorrow our band of traveling nomads (Andy, Colin, Bree, Chris and myself) will head to a beach town in the south and from there we will branch off to new adventures. Life could not be any better right now. I was meant to roam the world and eat the best tasting steak known to mankind.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Roads?
The final scene of Back to the Future can sum up a lot for me right now. Doc turns to Michael J Fox in an attempt to paint a picture of life in the future, "Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads." Fast forward from the movie in 1985 to December 2008. Backpack and boarding pass in hand, I stand in the JFK airport : a complete stimulation overload of people watching. I somewhat believe that visits to the airport are a trip within themselves.
Argentine bound, I am suddenly really relating to Marty McFly in this final scene. In a moment where you have to wonder "what am I in for?" I too, have no idea where I am really going, or what lies ahead. I invite you to read on, and share some of these unknown adventures with me. Soon enough those Spanish speaking skills that I acquired in Spain will be put to the test, and I am certain that I will be challenged with some common sense decision making to really complicate matters.
Warning: moments in this blog may raise an eyebrow, or a cause for concern. Rest assured, I am safe and sound, and absurd ideas such as a career as a street musician will be temporary. I think?For now, I am promptly plugging both earphones of my ipod in my head in hopes that it will drain out any uncertainty about my future. First song that pops up on the trusty ipod shuffle : Road to Nowhere by the Talking Heads. Perfect, I'm ready.
Argentine bound, I am suddenly really relating to Marty McFly in this final scene. In a moment where you have to wonder "what am I in for?" I too, have no idea where I am really going, or what lies ahead. I invite you to read on, and share some of these unknown adventures with me. Soon enough those Spanish speaking skills that I acquired in Spain will be put to the test, and I am certain that I will be challenged with some common sense decision making to really complicate matters.
Warning: moments in this blog may raise an eyebrow, or a cause for concern. Rest assured, I am safe and sound, and absurd ideas such as a career as a street musician will be temporary. I think?For now, I am promptly plugging both earphones of my ipod in my head in hopes that it will drain out any uncertainty about my future. First song that pops up on the trusty ipod shuffle : Road to Nowhere by the Talking Heads. Perfect, I'm ready.
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