Saturday, January 31, 2009

summer breeze



There is a distinct lazy afternoon breeze that floats in the air and it can only be associated with summer. The distant noises of motor boats humming and lawn mowers trimming grass create a seasonal soundtrack. The main street is filled with families returning from a sun filled day at the beach, and restaurants that lure in the wealthiest of summer dwelling visitors with their swanky décor. For one brief moment it is August and I am at the comforting Connecticut shore.
Suddenly without warning a woman calls out in Spanish selling Lumitas and I realize that I am in a new summer community in the southern hemisphere. The strongest indication does not come from the Spanish in the streets, but the looming presence of a snow capped volcano that is just as active as it’s neighboring town of Pucon, Chile that it seems to look down upon with ill will.

As smoke swirls from the giant geological wonder, the Chileans proceed with their daily routine. The light is green on the activity scale in the town center. Today will remain a day like many others: a day of only pending natural disaster.

Aside from escaping near death by mother nature, the Chilean Lake District provides ample amount of activities for adventure enthusiasts. White water rafting proved to be an educational Spanish lesson as directions were yelled at Chris and me over the roaring class five rapids. I can still hear “adelante izquierda” echoing in my ear.

A 50 Km bike ride seemed like another enjoyable way to spend a hot summer day. The uphill struggle by the 30th Km convinced me that I was probably dying from heat stroke. Like an oasis in the desert, waterfalls and lakes appeared and energy was restored after a quick plunge in the refreshing water.

Relaxation is always important too. Some new Argentinean friends invited Chris and me to the popular evening activity of visiting the local hot springs. In theory, this sounds enticing, but sharing a natural hot tub with overweight Chilean men is exactly why Chris named it “herpes soup.”

Chilean summer camp, as we have dubbed it, has been nothing short of entertaining, but January is quickly turning to February, and the fumes from the volcano serve as a reminder that it is awake and ready to go. Once again it is time to cross over to Argentina to savor the summer days a little while longer.


Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Time for an Update

Paulo Cohelo, the author of the best selling book The Alchemist, (a most recent read of mine on a busride) promotes the idea that we must get rid of the notion of time and accept that everything is eternal.

I am not sure that I have quite arrived at that point, but I can confidently claim that concept of time has become very blurry. In fact, I unsuccessfully spent about 6 km of hiking Torres del Paine trying to determine the date and day of the week. Due to this situation I have unfortunately neglected to update on the latest adventures.

Multiple times, borders have been crossed between Argentina and Chile to enjoy both sides of the Andes. The stamps between the two countries are taking over the pages in my passport. Somewhere in between conquering the circuit in Torres del Paine in an impressive 6 day hike, and driving to the ˆEnd of the Worldˆ Ushuaia, Argentina; I find myself currently traveling around Chile with a cast of characters.

Chris, and one of our newest Belgian friends are still in Argentina in the pursuit of finding fish. Meanwhile, on the Chilean side of living, I am chasing penguins with another Belgian friend, and a Czech guy. In order to fully understand it is necessary travel back in time for a recap as to how we all arrived at this point.

Climbing dunes at Cahoons Hollow beach on the Cape used to be considered a strenuous hike (arguably it still is after a day of fun in the sun.) A six day hike in Torres del Paine National Park in Chile complete with strong winds, rains from all directions, knee deep mud, and cumbersome backpacks has led me to believe that there are greater challenges miles away from the mudslides awaiting at The Beachcomber.

Although the park proposed an occasional challenge, the journey was not nearly as daunting as local guides had forewarned us. During the finish, Chris and I ran into some familiar faces from Bariloche that we had met a few weeks prior (note: this happens frequently). Our numbers quickly increased from 2 backpackers to 5, and so the next leg of the journey began.

The past week or so has been spent with a Belgian couple 6 months into their around the world trip, and a Czech guy whose enthusiasm for the store TJMaxx can not go without being noticed (he has even tried to contact the company to open stores in Czech Republic)!

Our own version of a cultural exchange led us to various locations: Ushuaia- a small portside sity that is famous for being the southern most city in the world, as well as a fishing mecca. Horns from boats blare with frequency as they embark on their voyages to Antarctica. Back in Chile, the five of us (2 Belgians, 1 Czech, and one Chris Wu) will spend our final evening of traveling together tonight in Punta Arenas Chile before Chris and I head up north to Puerto Montt.

What lies ahead in the future is just as questionable as what day it is today. Time will tell...

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

quick glimpse

I have some updating to do, but limited time and creativity at the moment. Current location is Puerto Natales, Chile. For now I will share a video of Chilean living until I can get the writing back up to speed... happy viewing!

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Lessons Learned

One month into the South American adventure: it has become difficult to distinguish where odd odors from my backpack are originating, or to remember a life without shower shoes. Oddly enough, i cannot get enough of the maddening vagabond lifestyle. This feels like a seemingly appropriate moment to share a few noteable lessons learned on the road.

1) Argentineans not only appreciate exact change at the register, in most cases they demand it in a rather hostile manner. I am still trying to figure out why people in this country holds onto their coins as if they are gold.

2) Wine Bottles can be opened just as successfully without adequate tools, such as a cork screw. The secret is to push the cork in while artfully avoiding the squirt that often follows. (ok I will admit that I learned that a few years ago in Spain) Chris has really mastered this skill though; perhaps because he carries knives with him whereever he goes?!

3) People around the world actually enjoy meeting Americans now because it allows them the opportunity to discuss Barack Obama and congratulate our country on the decision that has been made. I already appreciate what our 44th president has done for Americans.

In many situations lessons are learned through minor mishaps. A daily routine as simple as visiting the supermarket can go horribly wrong. Although Chris and I meant to order un cuarto (1/4 KG) of ground beef, the butcher heard cuatro (4 KG) of our order. Chris turned to me at the end of the debacle and simply stated ¨Just when you think your Spanish is improving you end up with 9 lbs of beef.¨

The only unfortunate part of any of this is that the time is passing quickly. Aside from New Years celebrations with some Mexicans and a Colombian, most of the recent days have been spent in El Chalten camping deep in the mountains carefully NOT spending money.

El Chalten is a rather peculiar place: a sleepy town, yet it is crawling with tourists from around the world who are adorned in their finest trekking gear. Most likely they are trying to catch a glimpse of Mt. Fitz Roy.

Our personal camping experience along the massive mountain involved a hike back down to civilization on day 2 simply to liven up the adventure with some whiskey. We went to great extremes for our prized bottle of booze. The ascent back up to the campsite made us question our motives as dark storm clouds began to form around the peak of the Mt. Fitz Roy. While Chris and I crossed the field it suddenly felt like we were in a scene from Lord of the Rings about to enter into a dark evil world of pending doom.

Fortunately we have lived to tell the tales of silly mishaps and battles with ominous weather. Tomorrow we venture south to Puerto Natales Chile where it will be time to explore another South American Country...more lessons to learn.